How a Crackdown on Immigrant Drivers Ignited an Indian Food Frenzy — at California Truck Stops

There’s been a surprise surge of Indian food spots along lonely stretches of California’s highways — an unlikely outcome of President Trump’s immigration policies.

More than 13,000 migrant drivers lost their licenses in the state this year as the White House ratcheted up restrictions on some immigrants. Many of those drivers were Indian and pivoted to set up food trucks.

After hauling produce for a decade, Karanveer Singh got an email in December, saying his license wouldn’t be valid after 60 days because of his immigration status. Three of his drivers got the same notice.

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In 2023, some estimated that there were around 40 Indian roadside eateries on highways across the U.S. Today, there are more than 150, according to Dhabaroute, an online list of Indian roadside restaurants — called dhabas — for truckers. California has the most, more than 30, followed by Texas with more than 20, according to the crowdsourced website.

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Around 750,000 Punjabi Sikhs live in the U.S., and about 150,000 work in trucking, with most based on the West Coast, according to Sikh Coalition, a civil rights group.

Many Sikhs started as farmers and expanded into trucking. Punjabi Americans built trucking fleets and expanded into trucking schools, truck stops, gas stations and eateries. Their success inspired songs and films that made American trucking a dream for some in India.

Punjabi truckers changed the culinary profile of American highways. Punjabi-owned dhabas emerged, serving the standard highway food-stall fare of India and Pakistan: piping hot rice, rotis, curry and sweet masala chai to fuel tired truckers. Community-created maps show the I-5 corridor has one of the largest clusters of Indian highway dhabas, with a substantial presence on I-80, I-10 and I-40.

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