Marian Liu, CNN, September 2, 2018
Classmates would bully Fatima Lodhi, taunting her and other darker students with derogatory names.
“All this was done by my light-skinned fellows, just to make me feel bad,” said Lodhi, a 28-year-old early childhood educator who started the anti-colorism campaign Dark is Divine in 2013.
The campaign conducts classes online and in schools on media literacy, confidence-building and inclusion, with the goal of teaching people to embrace themselves and be comfortable in their own skin. It has now reached more than 20 countries.
“Light skin, white skin, is still considered the ambassador of beauty,” Lodhi said.
A recent study found that more than half of 1,992 men and women surveyed about product use in India had tried skin whiteners, and close to half (44.6%) felt the need to try such products due to media such as TV and advertisements.
Globally, the demand for whiteners is climbing, projected to reach $31.2 billion by 2024, up from $17.9 billion in 2017, especially in Asia, the Middle East and Africa, according to market intelligence firm Global Industry Analysts. Routine skin whitener use ranges from 25% in Mali to 77% in Nigeria, and it’s 40% in China, Malaysia, the Philippines and South Korea, according to the World Health Organization.
Asia’s growing market
But when it comes to these products, the Asia-Pacific market is the most lucrative region, making up more than half of the global market — an estimated $7.5 billion out of $13.3 billion — in 2017, according to Future Market Insights, which studies markets in over 150 countries. China accounts for about 40% of sales in Asia, Japan 21% and Korea approximately 18%.
“In East Asian culture, women prefer lighter skin tone because they believe ‘yī bái zhē bǎi chǒu,’ which means ‘a white complexion is powerful enough to hide seven faults,'” said Shuting Hu, who researches new ingredients for whiteners, looking at the mechanism in skin cells at the molecular level. She is executive director and co-founder of SkinData Limited Hong Kong, a technology startup based on her research at the University of Hong Kong.
Rachit Kumar of Future Market Insights added that “the demand is expected to continue to grow despite their potential health dangers. Asian consumers are highly concerned regarding their beauty and hence tend to spend more on such products, particularly the current generation of consumers in their teens who tend to have a significant beauty budget.”
Kumar attributes the rise in demand in Asia to these consumers, who are “ready to spend millions of dollars in order to enhance their overall appearance.”
Cosmetic manufacturers are launching skin-lightening products on a regular basis in order to cash in on this lucrative business.
Hu herself has tried most of the skin whiteners on the market, using them to treat acne marks or to even out her skin tone after a tan, she said. But she also grew up under pressure to be fairer.
The limit to skin whitening
“The color of our skin is determined by melanin, which is produced by melanocyte, a type of skin cell. Everyone has different numbers of melanocytes, and that’s why we have different skin colors,” Hu said. “It’s impossible to change your gene or race, so there is a natural limit to whitening effects that you can achieve through using skin care products.”
Seventeen percent of those surveyed in the recent study in India reported adverse side effects from whiteners, yet only 3.1% sought help from a health professional.
Most commonly, people can develop contact dermatitis, an inflammatory reaction due to allergy or irritation, Cho said, leading to redness, itching, edema and heat. It can take two weeks to clear but can also lead to postinflammatory hyperpigmentation.
This year, the Japanese cosmetic company Kanebo paid damages to an additional 44 women, after reaching settlements with more than 18,000 women who developed blotches after using the company’s whiteners. Nearly 20,000 customers reported white patches, or chemical leukoderma — depigmentation — after using products that contained the whitening chemical Rhododenol.
The company recalled 54 products containing the chemical in 2013.
The World Health Organization says that 61% of skin products in India are aimed at lightening, and when 23 skin fairness creams in India were tested by the International Journal of Pharmacy & Technology, almost half were found to contain steroids.
But Hu believes that there is a safe way to whiten, if allergies and ingredients are taken into account.
“The way to achieve is not by killing your melanocytes but to inhibit the synthesis of melanin or accelerate the removal of existing melanin,” Hu said.
She advises looking for a regulated product from an authorized dealer, being patient and continuing to use the product as long as you’re not allergic to it, plus reading and understanding the ingredient list. She says that products with vitamin C are not stable and better used within a month, whereas those with hydroquinone, a compound that helps limit skin from creating an excess amount of melanin, can be used only with a doctor’s prescription.
“Governments should support or initiate social programs that encourage people to appreciate diversity in skin color and not make simple connections between being fair and being beautiful and successful,” Shroff said.